red neck hole drilling

we got no drill bit so we just used our heads. now, i just need a lock washer and nuts!

big three upgrade

big three upgrade means:

1. lowering the resistance of a cars electrical system
2. stabilizing voltage which will reduce dimming and lessen voltage drops
3. less stress to your charging system

the big three got it's name from the three wires that needs to be upgraded, which are(in no particular order):

1. alternator to battery positive
2. battery negative to chassis
3. chassis to engine

now, visit big3 upgrade thread on sounddomain.com forums for more read. try visiting this page back for updates

ae86 coilover conversion

part1



part2



part3

tube frame car build

from: lotustalk.com - visit the page My Tube Frame Car build for other pics

i can only say this is a great inspiration for me. and now the video:

rwd mitsu quick shift

"Word of advice.. this will involve having to cut and weld that little ball at the end that goes into the shifter mechanism so your welder has to be very good and very accurate so it will work properly. This is not something I would suggest to DIY."

phil de lange(dog283)

thanks for the share bud. i hope you don't mind if i post it here

how to break-in

1. from: custompinoyrides.com

page: Engine Tech: How To Break-in your High-Performance Street or Racing Engine written by Ben Alameda

If you have a High-Lift Camshaft, Start and bring the engine to Racing Temperature (160 degrees at least). Then let it cool down on its own and re-start the process again “half a dozen times or more”. If you have the patience to do this. The reason is for your “NEW” valve springs to be slowly “heat conditioned to its stressed environment”!

Once you have gone through your heat/cool cycle, Go out and slowly accelerate your engine to mid-RPMs and immediately let go of the gas and let it “Engine Brake” with out forcing it too much. Next go out to a faster speeds and let-off the gas and down-shift without forcing it from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and finally to 1st!

DO THIS ABOUT 6-12 TIMES AFTER YOUR HEAT CYCLING HAS BEEN DONE. AND IF YOU DO A “LEAK DOWN” CHECK – THE ENGINE RINGS WILL BE SEALED!

(This Engine ritual takes about 15 minutes and 4-8 miles)

2. from: mototuneusa.com

page: What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??

The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??

Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...

How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of

PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??

Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into

the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

sparco seat and sabelt 4pt harness

back to the storage room to check out some parts. the red sparco seat i bought last year struck my eyes and i decided to mount it on the lancer. removed the railings it came with, i took off the shoulder and lap strap hole cover(whatever that is) and stitched the gaps to make it presentable. added a nice sabelt 4pt harness and "viola"! a nice bucket seat waiting to be mounted.

scoured the net again about diy installation for the seat and harness. and much to my surprise, it's very technical...

here's an exerpt from the clubgti.com forum

1) MSA requirements:

• Racing requires FIA homologated safety harnesses. Must be 'in date'. The expiry date stitched onto a label on the harness is the last date the harness can be used in MSA / FIA regulated competition
  • FIA Appendix J - Art. 253 states that "one anchorage point for two straps [is] prohibited for shoulder straps." Since the MSA refers to the FIA for racing, 3-point harnesses aren't allowed for UK racing.

• Sprinting / hillclimbing requires:
  • 3 point safety harnesses for Road-Going Production and Road-Going Specialist cars
  • 4-point safety harnesses for Modified Production ('Mod Prod')
  • 6-point for Hill Climb Super Sports Cars, Sports Libre and Racing Cars
    (all as defined in the MSA Blue Book)
  • ... but does not appear to specify FIA Homologation (please shout if you know this not to be the case)

• Rallying requires FIA Homologated 4 point safety harnesses (minimum)

• Rallycross and Autocross requires 3 or 4 point safety harnesses (minimum) but does not appear to specify FIA Homologation (please shout if you know this not to be the case).

However, the MSA encourages FIA-compliant harnesses:

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSA Blue Book Where safety harnesses are mandatory, it is recommended that those described in [C(c)] 45 are homologated by the FIA and carry their label.

2) Trackday harness requirements:

• Subject to any event officials checking cars, eg whilst noise testing, none

Rough guide to types of harness in existence:

• EEC Approved
• Latch closing mechanisms
• Turn buckle release mechanisms
• Push button release mechanisms
• FIA approved harnesses

Also, design differences:

• 2 inch straps, 3 inch straps, or 3 inch shoulder and 2 inch lap
• Clip on harness straps, designed to fit over eye bolts
• Non-clip on harness straps, which are 'permanent' fixtures
• 3-point, 4 point, 5 point and 6 point harnesses

for more pics and details visit their thread: Motorsport harnesss installs - forum info compilation / FAQ

other sites also have their own version of this. but what am i gonna do? since, im gonna use it for motor sports, i might as well follow fia/aap (philippine local governing body) rules...

off for further research

Fog Lights Installation

i'll be installing a pair of fog lights and i need a diagram to follow. where do i go? the net, of course! then i found the site: old burb club. the specs on the page is identical to what i'm working on. so, i'll post it here just in case. many thanks to the site and all people involve.

"This is the right way to wire a set of fog lights. The relay switches the heavy current to the fog lights with big wire, while the dashboard switch wiring can be very small. This keeps high current and large wires out from under the dash and in the engine compartment where they belong. A typical set of 55 watt lights will draw about 8 amps for the pair. The dash switch will pull only about 0.3 amps to operate the relay.

Be sure to run extra ground wires from the fog lights themselves. Don't depend on the cheap spring or case ground to work. Take the light apart if necessary, and add a real ground wire. Run these to the frame somewhere handy. This will keep the lights from being intermittent.

This diagram shows the wiring using a Bosch relay. These are found just about everywhere."