roll cage article: from safetydevices.com

a good read about roll cage from safetydevices.com

some of its pages:

Step 1: Road or competition

Step 2: Bolt-in or weld in

Step 3: Choose options

Roll cage certification

the inspiration

i came across hodrod magazine - jan 2009 issue and the pics on page 26 gave me the chills: tubular space frame chassis! so there's no turning back now.

with a little research, i found the thread of this great build. i was in awe while looking at the pictures.

read the build at bruning auto design's '70 challenger w/ twin turbo hemi & c5 suspension thread on the lateral-g.net forums

and see some pics at hubgarage.com

rauno aaltonen talks about mini

pic from wikipedia

"the rally professor" rauno aaltonen, the inventor of left-foot braking, talks about good'ol mini:

part 1 of 3


part 2 of 3


part 3 of 3


and here's a bonus on basic stuff on rallying by rauno himself

tube frame car build

from: lotustalk.com - visit the page My Tube Frame Car build for other pics

i can only say this is a great inspiration for me. and now the video:

rwd mitsu quick shift

"Word of advice.. this will involve having to cut and weld that little ball at the end that goes into the shifter mechanism so your welder has to be very good and very accurate so it will work properly. This is not something I would suggest to DIY."

phil de lange(dog283)

thanks for the share bud. i hope you don't mind if i post it here

fia intl sport sporting codes regulations

appendix j to the international sporting code: link for the safety equipment regulation - like seats, harness, chassis, etc.

article 253-2010: safety equipment

4g13 modifications

since my mirage is fitted with a 4g13 mitsubishi engine, i searched the interweb for it's specs - mainly, it's weight. i need to know the engine weight for the calculation and triangulation of space frame. i don't know if it's fortunate or not. but, it lead me to some modifications for the engine

here they are:

• ben9166.com
• malaysiancarenthusiast.blogspot.com

how to break-in

1. from: custompinoyrides.com

page: Engine Tech: How To Break-in your High-Performance Street or Racing Engine written by Ben Alameda

If you have a High-Lift Camshaft, Start and bring the engine to Racing Temperature (160 degrees at least). Then let it cool down on its own and re-start the process again “half a dozen times or more”. If you have the patience to do this. The reason is for your “NEW” valve springs to be slowly “heat conditioned to its stressed environment”!

Once you have gone through your heat/cool cycle, Go out and slowly accelerate your engine to mid-RPMs and immediately let go of the gas and let it “Engine Brake” with out forcing it too much. Next go out to a faster speeds and let-off the gas and down-shift without forcing it from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and finally to 1st!

DO THIS ABOUT 6-12 TIMES AFTER YOUR HEAT CYCLING HAS BEEN DONE. AND IF YOU DO A “LEAK DOWN” CHECK – THE ENGINE RINGS WILL BE SEALED!

(This Engine ritual takes about 15 minutes and 4-8 miles)

2. from: mototuneusa.com

page: What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??

The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??

Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...

How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of

PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??

Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into

the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

sparco seat and sabelt 4pt harness

back to the storage room to check out some parts. the red sparco seat i bought last year struck my eyes and i decided to mount it on the lancer. removed the railings it came with, i took off the shoulder and lap strap hole cover(whatever that is) and stitched the gaps to make it presentable. added a nice sabelt 4pt harness and "viola"! a nice bucket seat waiting to be mounted.

scoured the net again about diy installation for the seat and harness. and much to my surprise, it's very technical...

here's an exerpt from the clubgti.com forum

1) MSA requirements:

• Racing requires FIA homologated safety harnesses. Must be 'in date'. The expiry date stitched onto a label on the harness is the last date the harness can be used in MSA / FIA regulated competition
  • FIA Appendix J - Art. 253 states that "one anchorage point for two straps [is] prohibited for shoulder straps." Since the MSA refers to the FIA for racing, 3-point harnesses aren't allowed for UK racing.

• Sprinting / hillclimbing requires:
  • 3 point safety harnesses for Road-Going Production and Road-Going Specialist cars
  • 4-point safety harnesses for Modified Production ('Mod Prod')
  • 6-point for Hill Climb Super Sports Cars, Sports Libre and Racing Cars
    (all as defined in the MSA Blue Book)
  • ... but does not appear to specify FIA Homologation (please shout if you know this not to be the case)

• Rallying requires FIA Homologated 4 point safety harnesses (minimum)

• Rallycross and Autocross requires 3 or 4 point safety harnesses (minimum) but does not appear to specify FIA Homologation (please shout if you know this not to be the case).

However, the MSA encourages FIA-compliant harnesses:

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSA Blue Book Where safety harnesses are mandatory, it is recommended that those described in [C(c)] 45 are homologated by the FIA and carry their label.

2) Trackday harness requirements:

• Subject to any event officials checking cars, eg whilst noise testing, none

Rough guide to types of harness in existence:

• EEC Approved
• Latch closing mechanisms
• Turn buckle release mechanisms
• Push button release mechanisms
• FIA approved harnesses

Also, design differences:

• 2 inch straps, 3 inch straps, or 3 inch shoulder and 2 inch lap
• Clip on harness straps, designed to fit over eye bolts
• Non-clip on harness straps, which are 'permanent' fixtures
• 3-point, 4 point, 5 point and 6 point harnesses

for more pics and details visit their thread: Motorsport harnesss installs - forum info compilation / FAQ

other sites also have their own version of this. but what am i gonna do? since, im gonna use it for motor sports, i might as well follow fia/aap (philippine local governing body) rules...

off for further research